GETTING THERE: Connecting service from Washington to Molokaistarts at about $1,000 round trip, but most visitors go a la cartefrom other islands. Island Air flies nonstop from both Maui and Oahu,for example, with fares starting at about $160 round trip. For a morescenic ride, consider the 90-minute ferry ($42.40 each way) fromLahaina, Maui, to Kaunakakai, Molokai. Details: 808-662-3355,www.molokaiferry.com.
GETTING AROUND: You need a car. Dollar and Budget rentals areavailable at the airport. Island Kine Auto Rental (866-527-7368,www.molokai-car-rental.com) is a private company in Kaunakakai; itwill pick you up at the airport or the ferry. Rentals start at $35 aday.
WHERE TO STAY: If you're looking for a mega-resort, you're on thewrong island. The big kahuna is the Sheraton Molokai Lodge and BeachVillage (see story, Page P4), but I opted for the Hilltop Cottage, abungalow on the island's southeast coast. With a full kitchen, washer/dryer, whirlpool tub and even a telescope for stargazing, it was areal deal at $125 a night (that's for stays of three nights or more;two nights are $395 total). I also rented the owners' old Ford Raiderfor $29.99 a day. Details: 808-558-8161,www.molokaihilltopcottage.com.
Other choices include the oceanside Hotel Molokai (Highway 450,808-553-5347, www.castleresorts.com), a perfectly amenable spot closeto Kaunakakai's main drag; some units have kitchens. Rates from $90.Nearby Wavecrest is a well-manicured condo complex with a pool andtennis courts. One-bedroom units with kitchens start at $70 a night,two bedrooms from $110. Details: 800-600-4158,www.wavecresthawaii.com.
Check with the Molokai Visitors Association (see below) for otherhotels, private rentals and B&Bs.
WHERE TO EAT: Foodies won't be overjoyed, but the non-discriminating won't have problems finding a decent meal. Therestaurant at the Sheraton Molokai is the sole spot for fine dining;locals suggested going on a Wednesday night for its all-you-can-eatpasta special (6 to 9 p.m., $14.95 a person). I had a great lunch offish and chips at the Hotel Molokai's tiki bar-ish restaurant; lunchfor two was about $20.
The diner-like Molokai Pizza Cafe (3 Wharf Rd., Kaunakakai) servesup burgers, pizzas and salads for about $18 for two. You may be theonly out-of-towner there, so just sit and listen and soak in theatmosphere. Likewise, Kamuela's Cookhouse (102 Farrington Ave.,Kualapuu) is as close to an institution as you'll find here; burgersand Hawaiian plate lunches are about $20 for two. For a good cup ofjoe, check out the Molokai Coffee Plantation in Kualapuu; it alsooffers daily tours.
Downtown Kaunakakai has several places to stock up on picnic ordinner fixin's, and prices are -- believe it or not -- reasonable. AtKanemitsu's Bakery and Restaurant (79 Ala Malama St.), most items areunder $3.
WHAT TO DO: The mule ride to Kalaupapa is the island's big-ticketattraction. The cost is $150 per person, with discounts if you pay inadvance. Details: Molokai Mule Ride, 800-567-7550, www.muleride.com.The company can also arrange a flight/tour ($119) to Kalaupapa fromMolokai's airport or book day trips from Maui or Oahu (rates,including airfare and tour, start at $225 per person). You can hikedown on your own, but you must tour the site via Damien Tours ($30,808-567-6171).
Visitors can also snorkel, scuba, whale-watch in season (Decemberthrough March) or go sport fishing. Hiking to the waterfalls in theHalawa Valley is permitted, but only with a guide. Check with theMolokai Visitors Association (see below) for a list of outfitters andother activities.
Beaches throughout the island are well marked with ample parking -- even it's just a dirt patch under a palm tree. Papohaku Beach onthe west end has restrooms and picnic groves. If you're jonesing tocrack a macadamia, head to Purdy's Nut Farm (Lili Pali Avenue inHoolehua; keep a sharp eye out for the sign).
INFORMATION: Molokai Visitors Association, 800-800-6367,www.molokai-hawaii.com. Resident Jeffrey Jumper operates a top-notchWeb site at www.visitmolokai.com. For general info: Hawaii Visitorsand Convention Bureau. 800-464-2924, www.gohawaii.com.
-- John Deiner
